Deciem Debacle

I wrote this piece about why I decided to quit my position at Deciem. I hope you enjoy it!

My Deciem ordeal began in September 2017 at a WeWork office in Manhattan. At the time, I knew nothing about the company besides the last minute googling I had done the night before. As a beauty professional, I found the concept of the company to be a bit weird but was moved by Brandon’s very heartfelt and personal letter on the website. I was intrigued to learn more and possibly become part of the Deciem family. The interview was pleasant and filled with talk of growth within the company. Before I got up to leave, the young woman checked her phone and said to me “Brandon is in town and would like to meet you! Are you free tomorrow?”. I wasn’t free the following day but for a chance to meet the infamous Brandon, I made myself free. That evening, I received an email with instructions to meet with Brandon Truaxe at the Andaz Hotel on 5th Avenue in room 1301. Being the skeptical New Yorker that I am, I was extremely hesitant to go up to the hotel room of any strange man. Upon my arrival, it was decided that we would meet in the lobby instead.

Myself, the young woman who interviewed me the day before, another prospective employee, Brandon and a man he introduced to us as his grandfather gathered in the lobby and answered a few brief questions about our ambitions and passions. He was intense and had an almost mythical quality about him. He spoke to us about the vision he had for his company in the United States. The young lady that was being considered for the position (also a woman of color) referred to him as a “genius” which led to his grandfather to tease him affectionately. Despite his crisply pressed clothes, spotless sneakers and meticulously slicked hair he had a messy quality to himself that made him relatable. That was the moment I decided I wanted to work for The Abnormal Beauty Company.

The original plan was for the Nolita location and Deciem office(s) to open during the first week of October. Each week, I received news of construction issues and delays. This meant our product trainings were to be held in hotel lobbies and WeWork spaces. Just when I was beginning to lose hope in my new employer, I was offered the opportunity to travel to Toronto to work in the Deciem stores. Naturally, I was excited about a free trip… and also experiencing the culture of the company I was spending every waking moment studying. With all my training materials and my finest black clothes in tow, I caught an early flight compliments of the company.

During my stay in Toronto, I worked at four store locations which included a pop up shop and a private shopping event. I visited about six locations. It was a common occurrence for me to see some of the same workers at multiple locations. At the time, I took this as a sign that everyone was comfortable jumping into roles whenever/wherever they were needed and not as a sign that the company was understaffed. I also was enamoured with the fact that most of the employees I had seen were women of color. I would later find out through firsthand experience that these women were often extremely knowledgeable but being kept in the lowest position the company had to offer. By the end of my trip, I was excited to take all that I learned and replicate the Deciem culture in the United States.

The Nolita location finally opened its doors on December 9th, 2017. The Deciem team was sleep deprived but excited to get to work. We had all grown tired of the daily email updates declaring and postponing the stores opening. New York city was definitely happy to receive us and prepared to put our knowledge to the test. The first few weeks were fast-paced and fun. We bonded as a team and fell into our roles (some of which we had not applied for). It was decided the evening before we opened that one of my fellow brand ambassadors would be promoted to store director. His promotion was effective immediately.

The honeymoon phase didn’t last long. We learned the true nature of our Canadian coworkers when we received our paychecks and most of them were short a couple hundred dollars. It was the week before Christmas in one of the most expensive cities in the U.S. Email threads that had been active for weeks suddenly went silent once questions and concerns arose. All of us were struggling financially and growing impatient. After many conversations amongst ourselves, I decided to reach out to the then Co CEO, Nicola Kilner. About 30 minutes later, I received a response from Nicola with all of the individuals who had been ignoring me for weeks. Needless to say, everyone who had been ignoring my (and my coworker’s) inquiries for the past few weeks promptly replied with declarations to get the situation resolved. This incident marked the first of many unfortunate ones with Deciem.

For us, the new year marked the beginning of our uncertainty of Brandon’s mental health. He sent a company-wide email informing us of how much he loved us. Immediately after, he “implored” us to not contact him or reach out to him for any reason until the month of February. We were instructed to only make important decisions if we were 100% confident in them. If we were not, those decisions were to be put on hold until he returned. He did not inform us of where he was going or why. The tone of the email sounded like a manic episode.

Around this time, we began to experience random power outages in the store. Because our registers and heating systems were operated via WiFi connection, we would lose heat and the ability to conduct business. The power outages seemed to happen every time there was inclement weather. We would contact the Canadian team that was remotely in charge of the store operations. Once again, our correspondence went unanswered. It was the middle of winter in New York City. We had no heat or hot water (which we hadn’t had since the store opened). As most problems do when they go unattended, as time passed… they got worse. In January, we had a blizzard in New York. It had gotten to the point where most of us had to work with our coats on. We relied on expensive yet ineffective Dyson heaters for some comfort. They were the only heaters available that went with Brandon’s aesthetic. Because of the heating situation, the pipes began to freeze and before you know it, we did not have any running water or a functioning toilet in the store. The Abnormal Beauty company became a hotbed of germs and sickness since we were unable to wash our hands, properly clean the store or use the bathroom.

We considered the fact that Canadians were unaware of OSHA laws in the United States. Our store director sent them article upon article with information regarding the building not being up to code and relayed to them our discomfort. They advised us to use the restroom in the basement of the dilapidated building next door which is also owned by Deciem. It was (and still is) under construction and also had no working electricity or heat. We only went there if absolutely necessary due to the fact that it was an active construction site. The team began to lose morale and each day more and more people called out sick. Inevitably, one of my coworkers got caught the flu. She immediately notified the store director who then notified one of the Canadians. His response was one I will never forget. He called the young woman a liar. He said that they had made Purell hand sanitizer available to us and if we (the employees) did not want to use it, it was our fault. He also said that the company would not be intimidated with threats of calling OSHA. Last but not least, he stated that if we could not go along with the way things were then perhaps we were not good fits for Deciem. That was the day I finally realized Deciem did not live by its many advertised philosophies. They were crooked, passive aggressive and did not care about their employees.

With all of the electrical and heating issues, it was decided that the store would close until they were able to fix things. I stayed home and thought about the decision I had made to leave my previous (well-paying) job for this promising brand that spoke about growth. I began to examine the fact that most of the stores were filled with Brand Ambassadors of color while office positions were reserved for waspy, inexperienced white women. One of my coworkers (a woman of color) was literally a chemist who originally applied for a position in the office. She was interviewed and offered a position as an hourly store employee instead. A transgender coworker of mine who is pursuing a career in public relations once mentioned being interested in a promotion from store keyholder to PR assistant. The response was a coy laugh followed by “You already work for the company.” It was apparent that people like me wouldn’t have much mobility here.

When the store reopened, heads rolled! Almost every week, one of our Canadian contacts was being fired. It was always sudden and followed by a very short and cryptic email to our store director. We began to question whether or not we would all suddenly be let go should Brandon change his mind. To me, his mental health became a real issue following the first video he posted on the Deciem Instagram page declaring the end of all marketing plans. Contrary to what was reported by the media, the entire marketing team was terminated the following day. Then, word went out in the company that we were going in a new direction. From now on (or until he changed his mind again), Deciem would be focusing on customer service and not education. For someone like me, who was interested in attempting to grow in the beauty education “department” of the company, this was disheartening. How was I supposed to be the pioneering black woman in the company if there was no space to pioneer? Also, how could we be effective brand ambassadors if we did not educate customers?

Everything began to fall apart after this. Brandon’s incessant rants on social media brought waves of negativity into the store. Customers who were already dissatisfied with our lack of stock were now questioning us on the morals of our boss. It was a hellish place to be. Our new Canadian contacts were just as unaccountable as the last. They tried their best to credit majority of our complaints to our store director. We knew everything they said was untrue because we watched and listened daily as they mistreated him and put him in compromising situations. Often times, he was physically ill due to the added stresses of this position they forced on him. Seeing them neglect someone who was giving some much of themselves to the company did not make me any more excited to move up within the company. I was disillusioned at this point.

For me, the final straw came when I returned from a brief vacation. Before I took the days off, I was told that I would be compensated for a certain amount of vacation hours. I confirmed this with two of my superiors. When I returned, I reached out to HR to confirm that the hours would be accounted for on my upcoming paycheck. She (nastily) said that they would. On February 28, I received my check and it did not include my vacation hours. I was agitated. Immediately, I reached out to the woman in HR. My email was forwarded to someone else. Then that person forwarded my email to someone else. It was said that I had to confirm my vacation hours with the final person included in the chain of emails. I have still not received any response from that individual. I left Deciem out of frustration. I left because I cannot work at a place that does not honor their word and makes me beg for money that I have earned.

Since my departure, some of my former coworkers have also left Deciem. I love them more for it. As Deciem employees, we were severely underpaid by beauty industry standards, not offered any health benefits as full time workers and taken for granted in the worst possible way. The Abnormal Beauty Company is conducted in a similar manner to a cult. The prime goal is to protect the interest of the leader and to carry out all of his wishes, no matter how bazaar. I once walked in on an interview being conducted by someone in management where he told a prospective employee that instead of the saying which speaks of “drinking the kool aid”, he preferred the term “drinking the coffee”. He proceeded to ask the young woman if she was prepared to drink the coffee. She said yes.

UPDATE: This morning (4/27/2018) I received a text message which included a screenshot from a Deciem store manager. The photo was of a company email from Brandon Truaxe and simply reads “I’m done with DECIEM and EVERYTHING. No need to discuss.”

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Seeing in Color: Foundation Match Like an Artist

Every day, millions of women around the world suffer from a condition known as Ghost Face Syndrome (GFS). Anyone, even celebrities, can suffer from this syndrome which is caused by mismatched foundation, unblended contour and/or lack of appropriate lighting during the makeup application process. As a beauty professional, every day I work to heal individuals of this syndrome. There is enough information and resources out there to help eradicate this epidemic one face at a time. Like any other illness, there is a sad pathology behind it. Most of the time, the victim is suffering due to lack of self awareness. He or she is not willing to see themselves as they really are, but instead choose to see themselves as another shade (usually lighter).

All jokes aside, I wanted to write this piece because I deal with many people who are so enamoured with the concept of lightness/whiteness, that they would rather walk around with an ashy face than perfectly matched foundation. On the other end of the spectrum, we have people who genuinely don’t understand the depth of color in their skin and get intimidated by the process of selecting makeup. To overcome these things, you must first understand the concept of color. As human beings, we are not simply one shade, we are composed of layers of colors which include undertones. For example, you may find that your under eye area or the middle of your face is a bit lighter than the rest of your face. There are so many charts on the internet with confusing ways to figure out your perfect undertones. I won’t clutter your life with those.

Instead, I’m going to show you some art. Meet Toyin Ojih Odutola; an African artist who is transforming the way people of color are seen in art. In her latest exhibition at the Whitney Museum she uses oil pastels, charcoal and graphite to give texture and nuance to strong faces with traditional African features. I stood in awe of her uses of light and attention to detail. I think that taking a look at Odutola’s work could help get a better understanding of what to look for in your own face just to simplify the color selection process. If you look closely at the skin tones of the portraits, you will see undertones of yellows, reds and neutrals.

This portrait of a husband (yellow undertones) and wife (neutral undertones). Imagine when the artist worked on the piece, that the first layer of paint for the husband was yellow while the first layer of the wife’s skin was brown. 
This is a close up shot of my favorite piece in the exhibition called The Wall of Ambassadors and featured this striking woman with red undertones. 

Now imagine that you were asked to paint a self portrait. Consider what color you would use as a base.

Are you rosey in the cheek area? Then it is likely you have pink undertones.

Do you have a deep earthy tone to your skin? Then you, my dear, have red undertones.

Do you find your skin is sallow and looks better under natural lighting? Then like me, you have yellow undertones.

Do you feel as if you don’t fit into any particular category and having a pretty reasonable, even skin tone? Welcome to the neutral club.

Figuring out your undertone is half the battle when it comes to finding the correct foundation. For brown and black skin tones, it is important to pick foundation lines that have a wider selection of brown tones. I’ve heard great things about Fenty, Black Opal and NARS when it comes to darker skin tone selections. For lighter shades, it is typically more important that the formulas look natural on the skin and not drying. This can mean going for more hydrating serum or liquid foundation formulas. A common mistake for lighter shades is choosing yellow undertones instead of pink or neutral so try to avoid that! Also, keep in mind that makeup formulas do oxidize on the skin and that may cause them to change color throughout the day. It is best to go in person, with a clean face and try out your prospective foundation to see how it will react with your skin.

 

What’s your favorite foundation brand? Why?

Glow Therapy: Candid Conversations With A Skin Specialist

So I’m having an event in NYC! Think of it as a TEDtalk for all things beauty and wellness related. I’ll be breaking down the functions of the skin, how you can get the most out of your seasonal skin care routines & much more. You’ll also have the opportunity to ask me any questions you might have about beauty (even professional questions). The best part is you will receive a free skin consultation from me as well! I hope to see all your beautiful faces there ❤ I’m so excited to meet you!

Here’s the link!

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/glow-therapy-candid-conversations-with-a-skin-specialist-tickets-42162783019

The Pu**y Peel

As you may or may not know, vaginal care is important to me. Why? Because myself and some of my favorite people have vaginas. They’re pretty awesome but having one is like having a part-time job you never applied for but keep just because you need to make ends meet. Between GYN appointments, waxing, shaving (yuck!), periods and child birthing… it’s like WTF?! When does it end? Not today.

I did some extra shit to my vagina earlier that was amazing and you need to hear about and/or experience! I got a chemical peel on my vag to help with ingrowns, exfoliation and brightening. I have tried a few different brands of peels on my face. All of them were busts. I did not like the tingling/burning sensations or the weeks of dehydrated skin that ensued. The reason I was willing to try again with my vagina was because my ingrowns have gotten worse due to the cold season and the fact that my waxing schedule has changed.

Fortunately for me, one of my very best esthetician friends referred me to Baire in Hell’s Kitchen. They use PCA chemical peels, which have been around for over 20 years. PCA is a science based brand complete with pH balanced products for every day and professional use. They are very education oriented. I love the company philosophy mainly because they offer so many options in peels that otherwise can be very harsh and intimidating.

My appointment was with a lovely woman named Marina. She was pleasant and gentle. We chatted about our shared reservations regarding other brands of peels and direct acids. Because I am completely comfortable busting it open on medical tables, my service was quick and easy (about 25 minutes). Although I did not experience any discomfort, burning or stinging, it is a possibility with others. Luckily for me, Marina was nice enough to check in and make sure I was okay.

So far, my bikini area feels smoother and softer. My ingrowns are a bit more apparent and I am trying my best to not pick them out just yet. The bikini peel service is priced at $75 and recommended to do every 4-6 weeks. I will most likely be doing 6 sessions so that I will see desired results. I want my skin to be completely recovered from all those years of shaving!

I’ll keep you posted 🙂

SAY NO! Protect Your Glow

If you’ve followed me for a while, you are absolutely aware that my approach to skin care (and overall wellness) is being gentle with the skin. This means not doing anything that would disrupt the acid mantle of my skin. The acid mantle is the outermost layer of the skin that protects it from any bacterias and potential invaders. Moral of the mantle is, it keeps the dirties out. Being that it is so important to skin health, I want to do everything within my power to keep it intact. So here’s a list of things to avoid that could disrupt and/or destroy your acid mantle.

  • Drying Alcohols– drying alcohols wear away at the acid mantle and make the skin vulnerable to infection and overproduction of oil
  • Peel-off masks– masks that dry hard and peel from the face not only hurt like hell to take off but they can make the pores appear larger
  • Nair– it falls under the category of chemical depilatory which means which means it is highly alkaline (unlike the natural state of the skin) so… NOPE!
  • Shaving– call it dermaplaning or whatever you want… it is shaving. Those little vellus hairs (yes, they have a name) are the equivalent of a wire fence for your acid mantle
  • Microneedling- poking holes in my face with needles? Blood? Need I saw more?
  • Mineral Oil– check all your products and if they have mineral oil in them, burn them. Or just throw them in the garbage. Although it softens the skin, it does clog the pores and increase water loss in the skin. Water loss speeds up aging
  • Face Scrubs– anything with granules on the skin that is meant to exfoliate usually does not. Instead, it scratches at the acid mantle and makes the skin raw. Step away from the St.Ives ladies!
  • Lemon Instagram hobbyists will lead you to believe that lemon juice on the face is a great lightener and exfoliator. It is actually too acidic for the face.
  • Vaseline– Its derived from petroleum… like the stuff we put in cars. Also, uses paraffin wax which is bad for your skin in the exact same way as mineral oil. It is also horrible for the environment
  • Facial Brushes Similar to face scrubs, they can wear away at the acid mantle. Aside from that, they hold bacteria and makeup.

The Abnormal Beauty Story

I have been keeping a secret. For the past three months, I have been a brand ambassador for a company called Deciem (also known as The Abnormal Beauty Company). You might’ve heard of the brand by way of The Ordinary which is now carried at retailers like Sephora and Ricky’s. The company is an umbrella brand, which means it owns and formulates multiple brands. As of now, there are more than 100 products under the Deciem umbrella. This means it took me a lot of research and trying out to know for sure if I loved the brand. Since it is against my personal code of ethics to promote some shit I don’t use or love, I kept my new role under wraps.

But now, I am here and ready to share with you!

Deciem offers lines for hair, skin and body but for the purpose of simplicity, we are just going to focus on the skin care lines for now. There’s The Ordinary, Hylamide and NIOD (pronounced KNEE-odd).

The Ordinary: This line is so simple that it’s complicated for most people. It’s where you go to figure out what kind of ingredients your skin likes. Also, it helps you to get real about your skin concerns and goals. It has everything from exfoliating acids, retinoids, vitamin C, cold-pressed organic oils and other molecules for various concerns. The best part about the line is, all of the products are priced under $15. The only thing that I am not fond of about the line is that it does not have a cleanser.

Some of my fav products from The Ordinary include EUK 134, Azelaic Acid, Marula Oil.

HylamideThis would be considered the next step up. The formulations are a little more advanced and target more signs of aging. Also, the serums are a lot lighter in texture compared to The Ordinary because they’ll penetrate the skin a lot better. This line has a face cleaner, face mists and uses targeted “boosters” for skin care concerns like sensitivity and congested pores.

Some of my fav products from Hylamide include the High Efficiency Face Cleaner, SuQ Anti-Age serum, Photography Foundation

NIODOkay so NIOD is probably the best thing to come into my life in 2017. Most advanced skincare technology I’ve ever used. The line focusing on preserving the skin health for as long as possible. This explains why it is absent of things like direct acids and retinoids. It is also very special because it not only supplements what your skin is missing but it also trains your skin (via these crazy delivery systems called precursors) to create more of whatever your skin is lacking. Naturally, it is the most expensive line, but not so expensive that you feel horrible about purchasing it. It ranges from $25-$90.

Honestly I love everything I’ve tried from NIOD. It has become a staple in my daily routine (both day and night). I use the Copper Amino Isolate Serum, Fractionated Eye Concentrate, Multi Molecular Hyaluronic Acid, Non-Acid Acid Precursor, Voicemail Masque, Flavanone Mud and Mastic Must.


I know that the website can be a bit overwhelming but if you are ever in need of product recommendations or have any questions, feel free to hit me up and ask!

Last Call for Alcohol!

In honor of the new year, let’s chat about alcohol. Not the kind that will have most of you tipsy come the stroke of midnight, but the kind that is found in our cosmetics. Any sensible esthetician or beauty professional would advise you to stay away from products that contain “bad alcohol”, but upon reading your product ingredients, you’ll see that many of them contain an alcohol of some kind. How do you know what to avoid? I made a chart (but we will get to that later).

Alcohols are part of a group of organic compounds. They can be at higher and lower molecular weights. Higher molecular weights mean they are heavier in texture and work to hydrate/protect the skin. In other words, we like high molecular weight alcohols! The lower molecular weight alcohols are the ones that are more watery in substance. They dry the skin out and can sometimes create chain reactions of damage in the skin.

Check the ingredients of your fav products to see if they contain any bad alcohols. Sometimes you may notice a small amount of low molecular alcohols in your retinol or vitamin C products. They are there to help disrupt the top layer of the skin to allow the vitamin A (retinol) and C to absorb into the skin more effectively. This means if the bad alcohol is (very) low on the ingredient list, it may not exactly be harmful to you. Just use the product sparingly!

Good Alcohols

(high molecular weight)

Bad Alcohols

(low molecular weight)

Caprylic

Cetearyl

Cetyl

Decyl

Isostearyl

Lauryl

Myristyl

Oleyl

Stearyl

Ethanol

Ethyl

Denatured alcohol

Methanol

Isopropyl

SDA

Benzyl

Happy New Year to you! Always remember to Glow Responsibly! 🙂